FUNDING!! We Both Win Mountain Fellowships from the American Alpine Club

Funding an expedition like this, as you might imagine, is a job unto itself.  We haven't spent much time documenting our monetary struggles because - well - it's been a bit depressing.  But two days ago we won our second victory in the fundraising war, as both Max and I were awarded Mountain Fellowship Grants of $600 from the American Alpine Club.

"Started in 1966, the Mountain Fellowship Fund grants encourage young American climbers age 25 years and under to go into remote areas and seek out climbs more difficult than they might ordinarily be able to do."

With $1,200 from the AAC, we expect to able to purchase about half of the gear we still need (see upcoming posts).  We're still a long way from finding all the funding we need, especially considering we have yet to purchase our tickets, permits or food.  But these grants certainly help.

Keep your fingers crossed, as our applications for the McNeill-Nott Award from the AAC and the Jim Wilcox Award from the Ragged Mountain Foundation are still being considered.  

Training Update #2

Waterfall climbing is NOT training for Denali.  I freely acnkowledge this.  But really... it's all I want to do right now.  And it trains the head, if not the lungs, and that counts for something.

Today Rita Ciambra and I headed to Frankenstein and managed to snag Dracula in thin conditions.

FIRST ICE! (Thanksgiving Day)

The Black Dike - a bit thin

Max and I finally got first ice yesterday, up on Cannon Cliff.

We awoke at about 3:45, left by 4, and were at the base of the Black Dike (WI4 M3) at about 7 AM.

Then we got held up by another party, who'd arrived in the parking lot about 10 minutes before us.  Still, we topped out around 1 and got back for Turkey by 3:30.

What a great way to start the season.

Some lessons:

Max is in love with his new tools.  If they could belay him, I have little doubt that I'd be dropped like a hot brick.

The ultra-lightweight CAMP Air CR harness I was wearing for the first time is NOT designed for climbing, unless you're soloing, I suppose.  Going back to my old Petzl until I can afford a Xenos.

Cold Front Coming In!

The weather is supposed to be getting nice and cold for the next few days, hopefully enough to bring the early season ice back.  Looking forward to getting some good climbing in on my next "weekend" (Mon, Tues, Wed).

Starting to get excited, bought a new pair of ice tools a couple weeks ago, sharpening crampons, getting my winter climbing gear ready.  Getting into the mindset, just need to make it through the next four days of work.

-Max

VERMONT

I'm back!  It's beautiful, my tools are sharp, and it's too fucking warm.

But Max and I are now on the same coast, meaning we can train together, hopefully starting tomorrow at Smugg's.

Joe Puryear falls to his death on LaBuche Kang (7,367m) in Tibet

Our hearts go out to Michelle, Gail and Shirley Puryear, to David Gottlieb, his climbing partner, and to all of Joe's friends.

My connection is a distant one: my uncles and father met Dave on Rainier a few years ago, and subsequently turned me on to his and Joe's blogs.  Reading Joe's stories in the Alpinist, his Alaska guidebook, and his blog posts has been a bit more meaningful to me because of that connection, though it is a distant one.  Actually, I was always just a bit amazed that regular schlubs like my dad and uncles could just randomly befriend a world-class alpinist.

Anyway, it should be fairly obvious at this point that this blog is modeled on Joe and Dave's blogs, both visually and in purpose.  So it seems this is another appropriate place to lament Joe's death, and to wish his family well.

He was truly one of mountaineering's greats, and always climbed in the finest style.

Please visit their most recent blog and make a donation to the fund to bring Joe home.

Early Season Ice (Sort of)

Pike and I taking shelter from the wind halfway up Odell's Gully

Hiked into Huntington Ravine 11/1 realized how out of shape I am. Ice conditions weren't great, thin, hollow ice over running water most of the way. Pinnacle gully was still a waterfall as was much of Odell's but we still managed the right side of Odell's. Super easy low angle ice to brutal swimming through waist deep snowdrift for the last 500 feet of the gully led to high winds in the alpine gardens and finally a cozy night in the hermit lake lean-tos.

A great trip overall, my shoulder's killing me but I can't wait to get back next week, the ice should be better and I'll be in better shape.

-Max